
 Instruction for assembling the 6532 to 6530 adapter.

 This adapter is specifically intended for use with the KIM-1 in
locations U2 and U3. It is not intended to be used for other 6532 
applications.
For other application it may require significant modifications to the 
PAL used, cuts and jumpers on the boards and some method to program 
the EEPROM used.

 It requires that the Debug Board must be assembled and operational to 
program the EEPROM on the board with the appropriate -002 or -003 code.
This is needed, even if you are sure your failure is either the -002 
or -003  IC and don't plan to use the Debug Board.
 I recommend using the Debug Board to confirm the failures, before 
removing either 6530, from the KIM.

 I recommend using a socket on the KIM-1 board for any part that needs
to be replaced. If removing either 6530, be careful unsoldering them.
The traces are easily lifted. If you do lift a trace make sure to
solder a small piece of 30 gauge wire through the hole from the top
to ensure connectoin. This can be easily checked with an ohm meter
when the socket is installed.

 Follow the steps to put the adapter together carfully. The assembly 
is tricky. Only 10 of the 40 IC pins are to be directly cross 
connected from top to bottom adapter boards!


Soldering Hints:
 Use a temperature controlled iron. Run it only hot enough to get the
 solder to reliably melt.
 Use a tip with iron clad. Raw copper tips require a lot of
 maintenance to keep the tip in good shape.
 Use a small chissel or cone tip to avoid making solder bridges.
 Do not use the iron to transfer solder to the board.
 Use a sponge to keep the tip oxide free and to remove excess solder.
 Wear safety glass or regular glasses while sodering.
 Use ROSEN CORE solder ( do not use plummers solder flux!!!! ). There 
 are electronic water soluable fluxes but these need to be washed of. 
 Do not mix water soluable flux core solder with rosen paste. 
 They do not mix well.
 Use small diameter flux core solder of 24 or smaller gauge.
 Have a solder Pullit solder sucker or fresh solder wick handy to 
 remove solder bridges.
 The adapters have a lot of close solder connections and are
 easily bridged, requiring cleaning.
 When first heating the joint, it often helps to make a quick touch at
 the iron/joint to get a little flux and solder to bridge to the 
 joint. 
 When the joint gets hot, apply solder to the joint as needed, not to 
 the iron.
 When soldering, remember solder is heavy. It can run down through
 holes and puddle up where not wanted. Work quickly.
 I recommend using eutectic solder with lead, not lead free. It makes
 better joints but that is up to you.


1.
The board with the EEPROM is the top board.It come wrapped in foil.
Install PAL such that the pin 1 is on the same way, as the EEPROM
and the pin 1 notch is at the EEPROM end.

2. Solder the PAL leads. Avoid getting solder in the small holes next
to the PAL's leads. These must remain clear. If solder is accidentally
flowed into the small holes clear them with the SolderPullit or solder
wick. Put a little flux on them so there is unoxidized solder, as it
clears easier.
Use care to not break the red and yellow jumper at the board edge.
I've had some success with heating the filled hole and pushing the
30 gauge wire through as in step 5 but clearing the hole is best.

3. Once the PAL is soldered, trim the leads, short, from the bottom 
of the  board, so that they do not short to the bottom board.

4. Make a cardboard spacer. Cut a half inch strip of thin cardboard,
such as a cereal box, about 3 inches long. Fold it in half.
You'll use this as a gauge to set the distance between the top
and bottom boards.

5. Find the 30 gauge wire in the kit. Put the two boards together with
the cardboard gauge between the top and bottom boards ( both silk 
screen up ). Use the 30 gauge wire to connect two of the small hole 
at the PAL's end of the boards and one of the 5 small holes at the 
EEPROM end.
I recommend threading the wire through the bottom board to the top 
board.
You then soldering it to the top board board. 
Use care to use only a small mount of solder. It doesn't take much.
Holding a light pressure on the two boards solder it to the bottom 
board.
You can then clip the wire from the main spool of the wire.

6. At this point in assembly, first check that the board are well 
aligned. If aligned well, threading the rest will be much easier.
Also, at this time with only 3 leads connectin the boards, you can 
check that the spacing between the boards is even. 
You can heat the solder and make adjustments. Make sure the leads are
perpendicular to the boards, as threading will be much easier.
If you are satisfied, you can remove the cardboard gauge spacer
now. It is OK to leave small fuze if some tears off on the cut leads 
of the PAL or you can use a pin to fish it out.

7. You can then install the remaining cross connects using the 30 
gauge wire in the rest of the small holes. Note that there are 5 holes
at the pin 1 end of the EEPROM. Don't forget them. Remove any solder
bridges between pads. 
They will thread easily if the wire is straight and the boards were 
well aligned in the previous step. If a wrong hole is accidentally 
filled with solder it needs to be cleaned. Work carfully.
Take time to inspect your soldering, at this time. The other
steps will make it difficult to patch or repair poor cold solders or
solder bridges.
There should be 37 of these cross connect wires. Count them!

8. Using the two 20 pin socket strips, check to see how much the leads
stick through the top board. You want to remove excess leads before
soldering them in by trimming them so they will be flush with the
lower side of the top board when installed. For the 10 locations that
will be cross connected I cut the pin even a little shorter, to 
1/2 board thickness for step 9. When we make the connector pin for
the bottom board. it will help gide it.
Trimming the other leads will help to keep them from shorting to the 
leads on the bottom board. 
Install the two 20 pin socket strips onto the top board and solder 
them. 
I recommend heating the pins between the board and socket, rather than
trying to get between the boards at this stage. Work quickly as
holding the heat too long will melt and distort the socket.

9. Find the 24 guage wire in the kit and a 5 pin socket strip.
You will use this wire to make the pins on the bottom board.
Only 10 of the pins will connect from bottom to top board. 
I recommend doing the 8 data bus first then do the VCC and GND
then you can do the other pins, that are not suppose to cross connect. 
The Data buss, VCC and GND are the only pins connected across from
top to bottom boards with these edge pin wires.
This is a little tricky but the wire must soldered between both boards. 
I find that with the small solding tip, I can get between the boards 
and get the solder to flow on both pads, top to bottom board and the 
wire pin. 
When done it will look like a solder post of the diameter of the 
solder pads.
It is important to put these on the right locations. 
From the top board, the corner next to the PAL pin 11 is the board 
pin 1 ( that is right, the PAL and EEPROM are facing the other way ).
Pins that are connected from board to board are pin 1 for GND,
pin 20 for VCC and pins 26 thru 33 for 8 pins of data buss. 
Try to solder the pins as straight as you can. 
The holes are a little large and don't keep the pins straight. 
For the 8 pins in a row, place the 5 pin strip on each strip of pins
as you go, to help align them. I first put the wire into the hole of
each board and cut them at about 0.3 inches, sticking out. Leaving
them long at this time helps to keep from accidentally soldering one
to the 5 pin socket. 
Before attemping to solder each one I use my needle nose pliers to
push them into an end pin of the 5 pin strip. This makes a handle to
hang onto for the first pin. As you go along the other pins, it
cross connects and aligns to previously soldered pins.
Leave the pins about 0.3 inches long for now.

10. Cut another strip of thin cardboard, about 3 inches long and
about 1 inch wide. 
You will use this cardboard to make sure that, when soldering
the rest of pins, they don't short from the bottom to the top board.
Again use the 5 pin strip The strip to align the pins as you solder
them.
Put the cardboard strip between the boards. I recommend using a piece
of blue tape to hold it in place, such that it is angled to minimize
the distance the pins go between top and bottom board.
Put the wire into the bottom board to the cardboard. and cut to 0.3
remaining below the bottom of the board.
Stick it into the 5 pin strip as above and connect to previous pins
to keep them aligned while soldering.
When all the pins are soldered in, you can trim them evenly to 0.2
inches. ( I cut a piece of cardboard to space the cutter for even
cuts, with my wire cutters. )



11. Put the adapter on the KIM with pin 1 of the adapter towards
the edge connecors ( Red and yellow jumper end ).
Install the 6532 chip the two 20 pin socket strips. Doing this after
putting it on the kim keeps you from bending pins.
Note, I recommend using a socket ( not included ) on the KIM board but
some may want to solder the adapter to the KIM.
With a socket, any errors are easier to fix.
If you should decide to solder directly, make sure to use a piece of
cardboard, as used earlier in assembly, to keep the pins from
shorting that are not suppose to connect both board in case they
come loose. If, while removing the bad IC, you damage a feed through
that connects to a top trace, one can often put a piece of 30 guage
wire through the hole with the socket pin. Only solder it to the
top trace first.

When installed the adapter board it is oriented the same way as the 
other 6530 but opposite the 6502!!

12. Follow the instruction in the Debug Board user instructions to
program the EEPROM for -002 or -003 location. You don't need the 6532
to be installed while programming the EEPROM but many of the test
require the 6532 to be installed.

If you have a problem you can contact me at: dkelvey@hotmail.com 


